Madd Thoppu: The Magical Shrub of the Western Ghats - By Chef Julius U Biswas

Madd Thoppu, also known as Aati Soppu, is a mystical shrub revered by the indigenous communities of the Western Ghats, particularly in the Kodagu District of Karnataka and the Wayanad region of Kerala. Scientifically known as Justicia wynaadensis, this plant is virtually unknown outside these regions, yet it plays a crucial role in the cultural and medicinal practices of the locals.

Every year, during the dark monsoon months, the Kodavas celebrate Kakkada Padinett on the eighteenth day of the Kakkada month in their calendar (falling between July and August). This day marks a special occasion when the Madd Thoppu leaves are believed to emit a unique earthy fragrance, signifying their peak potency. For 18 days from mid-July, the leaves are harvested and prepared for an ancient ritual: the extraction of what is fondly called “The Purple Rain.” This potent liquid is derived by boiling the leaves and stems, resulting in a brew that ranges from magenta to deep purple, and sometimes even indigo at its strongest.

The magic of Madd Thoppu lies in its transformation during the monsoon season. The plant absorbs a rich mix of nutrients from the valley soil, resulting in a concoction brimming with 24 essential compounds, including antioxidants, flavonoids, phenolics, saponins, and proteins. Its antimicrobial properties bolster immunity during the harsh monsoon months and offer numerous health benefits such as skin protection, brain function enhancement, and blood sugar regulation. The plant's anti-cancerous, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tumor properties further solidify its revered status among the Kodavas.

Madd Thoppu is used to prepare a variety of traditional delicacies such as Maddu Kuul (rice cooked in the extract), Maddu Payasaa or Aati Payasa (a sweet rice pudding), and Maddu Puttu (unsweetened rice cake). These dishes are an integral part of the Kodava cuisine, celebrated for their unique flavors and health benefits.

One of the most cherished preparations is Maddu Kappi. A close friend from the native community shared the secret recipe: the hot extract is mixed with jaggery, a hint of cardamom, Coorgi honey, and freshly grated coconut. This potent drink is to be consumed very early in the morning before sunrise, followed by a short nap to allow the body to rest. As my friend humorously warned, “Nim'ma kempubannavuadara naisargika m?trakke hedara b?di”—don't be alarmed by the red color of your pee, it's completely natural!